Our magnificent journey, through the north of Portugal, still Lisa tasted experience so much and are eight days and seven nights in the northern part of Portugal that there is no way I could cover all of it in one post. In my first post, we talked about Vila Real, the Douro River Valley, and one day in Porto (Travel Thursday: If Portugal is not on your Travel Bucket List, It Needs to Be). When I mentioned to People that I went to northern Portugal on vacation, most everyone mentions or asks me, “Did you go to Braga?” Yes, historically and culturally, it needs to be a stop on your journey.
Why Braga –
This city has a very strong history, not only in Portugal, but across Europe and the world. Braga has been a city for over 2000 years, the capital of ancient provinces, an important city in Roman history, location of the first/oldest cathedral in Portugal, one of the oldest Catholic cities in the world (set up as an archdiocese in the 12th Century), and the birthplace of the 1926 revolution in Portugal which lead to the new state. Many refer to Braga as Portugal’s Third City as it is the third largest city by population in the country, but it is so much more than a number.
Even though it is Portugal’s oldest city, it is actually considered one of Portugal’s youngest as there is a youthful population present, possibly because of the presence of the University of Minho, one of Portugal’s best universities. Braga was also the European Capital of Youth in 2012, the first Portuguese city to be chosen as such.
Accommodations –
Our Journey across the northern part of Portugal, was going to be jampacked with many different sites so when it came to time check into a hotel, it was usually very late in the evening. Waking up in Braga, we were able to see the beauty of the Vila Gale Collection – Braga in the morning glow. It was to be a rainy, dreary day in Braga, but there were still so much to see, and it actually calmed the senses so more could be taken in of the historic beauty of Braga.
Entrance to the hotel was on the right side of this facade.
Image of Holy Cross Church in front of the Vila Gale Collection - Braga Hotel
A view of the hotel's seasonal courtyard
Another view of the hotel's courtyard
One of the spacious hotel rooms
Yes, there's 2 pools and one has 3 slides.
Breakfast room was very impressive.
Breakfast is served.
Just off of the square of Fonte Seiscentista do Largo Carlos Amarante (17th Century fountain at Largo Carlos Amarante), we took in the historical sights of Braga’s Holy Cross Church (Igreja de Sta. Cruz). I would see many churches and altars during my stay in Portugal. I was raised Roman Catholic, but consider myself non-practicing of any religion at this time, but I always can appreciate the beauty and grandeur, and sometimes a simplicity of religious buildings. As a former social sciences teacher, European history, religious history, any history has always been very intriguing to me. So to be able to see some of these sites that are ancient, many five times older than the creation of the United States, some of the oldest buildings of their kind in Europe, it was a wonderful educational opportunity.
After the Holy Cross Church, we walked around town in the drizzling rain and enjoying the sites, viewing the courtyards and public gardens of Braga, until we reached the first cathedral ever built in Portugal. Sé de Braga, the Cathedral of Braga, also called the Santa Maria de Braga Cathedral,
Cathedral of Braga –
What one will notice when touring the cathedral is that there have been many different time periods of construction. The original cathedral was dedicated to the Virgin Mary by Bishop Pedro in August of 1089. Built in the 15th century, the construction of the entrance porch to the temple was done in a Gothic style. In the 16th century, other decorative elements were introduced, more so in the baroque style, like a Baptismal Font and other items to integrate the city’s coat of arms, other gilded woodwork, like the upper choir stand and in the monumental organs of the main chapel, and the two bell towers.
Front facade of the Cathederal
Banner announcing your arrival at the Cathedral
Later additions to the cathedral are very visible as the variety of designs can be seen
The grandeur of the doors
One of the elite rooms
Another view of this magi=nificent room
Ceiling and organ
Organ
Some of the historical artifacts.
Funicular to Jesus and Higher –
I’ve been on a handful of funiculars in my life but riding on the front of one up a hill or an area called Bom Jesus, well, that was a new experience. Bom Jesus do Monte (Good Jesus of the Mountain) was a pleasant surprise on our tour as I do enjoy trains and funiculars as well as massive views and this had it all with a great amount of history. The views inside and out of the church were worth the drizzly ride on the front of the funicular. Was there a Bad Jesus of the Mountain on the other side of the hill? We didn’t find out.
So I had thought that the “Good Jesus” outlook was a high point of my trip, altitude wise, but alas, we were to go higher to Jesus and visit Sameiro (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sameiro). I will include couple pictures here…
but seriously go to the Sanctuary’s website and just watch the 360 panoramic opening video as it’ll show you what amazing views exist.
A Perfect Hole in the Wall to Dine In –
When you’re in one of the oldest cities in the country, when I go to one of the oldest restaurants. Or, at least, this seem like one of the oldest restaurants, as it was truly just a hole in the wall, which is not a bad connotation at all. Check out Restaurante S.Frutuoso in person or its homepage, instagram, or Facebook. Walking in and seeing the fieldstone walls and wonderful, cozy atmosphere, you knew you’re going to have authentic food.
Is Braga Third?
Even though it was a little rainy for our visit to Braga, we still had an amazing time walking around and learning about the role this city played in Portuguese and European History. We don’t have this amazing architecture and history in the United States.
Even as the third largest city at 193,000+ citizens, this city did not feel cumbersome or packed. Multiple little city centers around cathedrals, churches, fountains, pedestrian roads, all of these had me keep wanting to break out into song like Belle. I know, it wasn’t France and I did not pack my yellow dress, but the feeling of peace, calm, history, and as well energy and excitement, all were palpable. Every picture I look at again reminds me of the great historical sights I saw, the inspirational venues, the great food, and the wonderful people I met.
Even though the trip concluded months ago and I’ve told most of my good friends about the experiences, ranking these cities we visited will be difficult and may have to wait until I finish all of my write-ups. So at this time I won’t say Braga is my Portugal’s Third City.
One thing that does ring true though… every place we visited in Portugal made us ask ourselves, why don’t we live here?
For more information on Braga, head over to visitPortugal.com and their resources on Braga.
