Nestled among towering redwoods and just a short drive from San Francisco, Guerneville is one of those rare destinations where life seems to slow down—and that’s exactly the point. This cozy Russian River town is a longtime LGBTQ+ haven, where the indulgence of wine country meets rustic charm, and where every visitor is greeted with a smile and a cocktail.
Guerneville in Sonoma County’s Russian River is the West Coast’s favorite LGBTQ+ playground. Just 30 miles north of San Francisco, Guerneville attracts thousands of LGBTQ+ visitors every year for a wide range of activities and fun like Gay Wine Weekend, Lazy Bear Week in midsummer. Others are Russian River Pride Parade and Festival and Women Weekend’s in May and August. See Sonoma Pride for year-round events. Sonoma County Pride reports Sonoma County is the second “gayest” metropolitan area in the nation, with 7.63 same-sex couples per 1,000 households, behind San Francisco with 12.4. Sounds like we’re all in good hands there!
Where to Stay
Our perfect weekend started at Highlands Resort, a charming hideaway tucked into a lush redwood grove. The resort has been welcoming guests since the 1920s, offering a tranquil spot to recharge while staying just minutes from Guerneville’s downtown nightlife. Wake up to fresh air, birdsong, and the promise of another leisurely day. You used to wake up naked as a jay bird here as the resort was clothing optional for all adults, yes, women, too, not just the gay boys, but is now a must-wear-clothes, but still adults only.
Check out the Highland’s “A Little History” page for more history like:
In 1979, the resort was declining when Bill and Steve bought it and gave it new life. This was at the beginning of the area’s revival as a tourist destination, especially for LGBTQ+ guests during the 1980s. They are credited with the wonderful landscaping at the resort.
What I found so relaxing was, well, everything. Breakfast by the fire pit, cozy private cabins with cross breezes, a massive heated pool open until 8 PM each night, all enchantingly surrounded by majestic redwoods that made you feel like you were in a whole new world.
Where to Breathe
Morning wa the perfect time to head to Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve. Walking the self-guided Pioneer Trail felts like stepping into a natural green cathedral constructed of 1,400-year-old trees towering overhead with the sunlight filtering through the canopy. The Parson Jones Tree was a treat to see as it is taller than a football field is long. When in the woods, you find yourself just not able to put the words together to describe the raw palpable beauty.
Where to Soar
Later in the day, we traded the forest floor for the treetops with a visit to Sonoma Zipline Adventures. We decided to do the Tree Tops Tour which consisted of seven ziplines, two sky-bridges, and a rappel down to the forest floor. Yes, we did reach speeds up to 40 mph and we were looking down over 250 feet to the ground. If the Tree Tops Tour is a bit much, the Forest Flight Tour offers similar breathtaking views, but with a gentler pace: zipping through the canopy, crossing suspension bridges, and climbing a spiral staircase before descending at the end.
And here was the longest zipline. Sound on to hear the race car!
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We could not have been happier with our tour, the guides were warm, funny, and safety-obsessed, the fellow tour members (8 total zippers and 2 guides) were perfect for sharing screams, laughs, and wide-eyed wonder under the redwood canopy. We all locked eyes the first time the redwood swayed a handful of feet this way and then that. Our cute little guide stated the trees could sway up to 15 feet, we did not want to find that out. I’ve done ziplining before, but the setting of this experience cannot be matched, the speed, the views, the sea mist coming over the redwood hills, the awe of nature, and the power and gentleness of it all made it all very spiritual. Special note, the weight range to ride the ziplines is between 70 and 250 pounds, I was at 247 and happy about it.
Where to People Watch
No trip is complete without a lazy afternoon at Johnson’s Beach, the unofficial queer beach club of the Russian River. Stake out a spot in the sun, dip your toes in the water, and watch as locals, bears, and drag queens share picnic tables and stories.Johnson’s Beach is also the name of the resort right there, too, we did not stay there, but it does look like fun.
We were told by several people and friends who have been to the area before, that we need to make a side trip to The Barlow, a 12.5-acre culinary and arts center in nearby Sebastopol. Sip natural wines at Region, sample artisan cheeses, browse local art, and shop for chic finds that will make your friends jealous back home (we found a ring and some unique clothes). And don’t forget to just people watch. We strolled up and down the streets at least three times, always seeing something new, someone new, and hearing performers entertain.
Come Whenever
Our stay involved weekdays in Guerneville so we were not able to sample the weekend entertainment. We were also there one week before Lazy Bear Week 2025 when the bars, restaurants, and entertainment are all hopped up on big bear energy. Everyone was saying we were too early, but as Goldilocks would agree, the time was just right as we were looking for a relaxing stay and we had it.
Evenings in Guerneville are all about kicking back, grabbing a casual dinner at one of the many local spots, then popping into a bar for a drink or three. We succeeded. We don’t think there is any bad time to visit as locals said the weather is about the same year round.
The vibe is friendly, flirty, and always inclusive—whether you’re there for a weekend fling, a romantic escape, or just some quality time with your chosen family.
Guerneville – See You Soon
I have heard lots about Guerneville for decades from friends that have visited the destination from out of state, from San Francisco and Sacramento, and we all saw it on HBO’s Looking. Even with all of that, I still went into it with not a great deal of info as that “lots about Guerneville” was the river, the trees, the nature. And I’m happy for that as my experience was fresh, wide-eyed, and open to soak in all that I could.
We are always on the search for that rare place where you can slow down and still have an adventure. The trip was so worth it. Flying into San Francisco, renting a car, driving a couple of hours through some of the most beautiful, green, curvy roads in the nation. Whether you’re hiking among ancient trees, sipping wine, floating down the river, staring up at the trees, or dancing under the stars, you’ll leave Guerneville refreshed, recharged, and just a little more connected—to nature, to your friends, and to yourself.
And Guerneville may feel like a historic sleepy town, but Sonoma Valley is always thinking about the future. At the beginning of the year, the tourism board launched the initiative “Wine Country for All of Us,” featuring a great quote by Cleve Jones, a renowned human rights activist, author, co-founder of the San Francisco AIDS Foundation and the NAMES Project AIDS Memorial Quilt, and a proud resident of Guerneville.
We will return. Thanks Guerneville for a reboot that was so needed.